Bus and RV Prepurchase Checklist don't buy a bus or rv without going over this list, it will save you a lot of trouble
Bus
and RV Prepurchase Checklist
This prepurchase checklist will take some time to work through but will serve as a very valuable resource to assist you in evaluating a bus, motor home, or RV for purchase. Use this GENERAL list along with the more SPECIFIC information on your particular platform of choice found at Tour Bus Issues, Conversion Bus Issues, School Bus Issues, RV Issues.
Buying a bus should be taken as seriously as a perfect car hire for you. If you're not sure how to go at this, just check out the prepurchase checklist below.
Oil Analysis - Ask seller to provide you the records
showing that the engine and transmission oil have been analyzed on a regular basis.
If they have not done this then the price should reflect this. Irregardless of
records you should pull your own
oil analysis which can detect: fuel dilution
of lubrication oil, dirt contamination in the oil, antifreeze in the oil, excessive
wear of internal components (by finding excessive traces of metal), wrong type
or grade of lubricants. Some wear is normal, but abnormal levels can give an early
warning of impending problems and help prevent a major breakdown later. Early
detection will reduce repair bills, reduce catastrophic failures, increase machine
life, reduce nonscheduled downtime. For example early detection with oil analysis
can allow for corrective action such as repairing an air intake leak before major
damage occurs. One of the major advantages of an oil analysis program is being
able to anticipate problems and schedule repair work to avoid downtime during
a critical time of use.
Rust - When buying a used bus remember - rust cannot be stopped easily. Rust does not rest. Rust MUST be taken seriously no matter how cheap your bus candidate is. You cannot always sheet metal and bondo your way to a permanent fix. A little rust on the body surface may be acceptable for the price. Do not accept structural rust in important areas of suspension or engine mounts, heavily rusted frames, or rusted through hood hinge mounts, anything that would be a major problem when (not if) it gets twice as bad as it is now. Surface rust can be fixed and body panels that are too rusted to fix can be replaced with original manufacturers parts, custom made sheet metal parts from your local sheet metal fabricator or welder or with aftermarket fiberglass panels.
Service Records - Ask for service records, original paperwork, and recent repair receipts. Everything in the paper trail will help you determine value and avoid potential problems. It will also reward you with some eye opening information. Oh, you mean you didn't know an engine swap could cost $3,000? Surprised that a brake job with rotors and new lines was $1,200? Receipts and paperwork are very valuable.
Carefully look through the paperwork and avoid the purchase of buses with no paper trail at all. Look for weird situations. Finding a receipt for an AC ch harge might be good, if its recent. Come across receipts for an AC charge done three times in the last year and you have a problem.
NOTE: If the VIN number on the service records or receipts does not match the vehicle you are purchasing then obviously that paperwork is meaningless.
Suspension Sytems - All bus suspension systems are engineered uniquely for every chassis. Engineers review the axles used when in the initial design phase, they study ride heights and frame and width variables so each suspension, either mechanical, air or independent, and each one ends up being a one of a kind custom solution. There is no way around it. The suspension system should be inspected and be in proper working condition, should be built by a quality company, and you should make sure you can find replacement parts easily because bus suspension systems are expensive to repair.
BUDGET - for parts an labor on ANY mechanical part for which you don't have a good history, receipt trail, or ability to inspect. In other words if you can't verify its condition then don't buy the bus unless you can afford to replace it, part by part. That means: AC, brakes, hydraulic lines, engine compression, transmission condition, steering and front end parts, electrical system from the wiring harness to the gauges, alternator and fuse panels, tires, body, and glass, air compressor buildup and recovery times, and many other items your mechanic can advise you about.
Bus Parts for the major brands are available for even 30 to 40 year old buses. More obscure brands, those made in foreign countries and imported, and models with short production spans can present major problems however. Parts availability issues are one of the reasons you sometimes see beautiful $20,000 - $40,000 buses sitting idle. These are huge complicated machines depending on the proper functioning of thousands of used parts. Be sure you have at least TWO sources for bus parts lined up BEFORE buying any bus.
Financing a tour bus - this makes and breaks most tour operations, not the choice of bus make. However many companies offer better financing for certain preferred builders and even certain models, especially those that have the lowest depreciation. The purchase of any bus used for business should not be done without a thorough evaluation of the finance options that are attached to it. Some banks won't finance a commercial bus until it has passed a DOT inspection.
Bus Insurance - this can be a real "dream breaker". How will you tell the church board that you you got a great deal on the bus for them and fixed it up real nice, but...well nobody will insure it cause it's too old, or the brakes are after market, or there was a recall on it. Tour operators and Limo companies - if you cannot insure your coach at a good rate you will never be able to turn the kind of profit needed to deal with depreciation, attrition, maintenance, and sales operations. Bus converters how would you like to finish your bus conversion with $50,000 in renovations only to learn it's uninsurable with normal companies due to "gross vehicle weight issues".
Do NOT underestimate this part of the process. Get an insurance quote in writing from at least TWO major carriers before signing to purchase a vehicle of any type. Insurance cost is important when comparing two different vehicles also. If the older vehicle costs twice as much annually in insurance costs would it be worth it to buy the newer one?
The "why are you selling" question - ALWAYS ask this question. Look the seller straight in the eye, do not look away, and say these exact words "why are you selling this bus?" Then WAIT! Do not look away, do not say another word until you are satisfied with the sellers answer. Watch the sellers reaction when they hear your question. Even someone who does not practice this technique can often spot a "seller" who is hesitant and may be covering something up, offers a wierd answer, is caught off guard, slips up and tells you something they did not intend to, etc.
It is very important NOT to misinterpret the sellers answer, however. Some sellers are embarrassed that they don't have the ability to finish repairs, or depressed they don't have time to use it, or broke, or whatever. Just because they may seem sad does not mean they are selling you a problem.
If you are spending more than $10,000 get the help and advice of a professional salesman, used bus dealer or broker, they can usually save you money. Looking to buy or sell a used bus or see Bus Links for other dealers I know who are reputable, experienced and intelligent enough to be worth every penny they may cost you in "markup". I say "may" cost you because usually they SAVE you money. They purchase the buses wholesale, can mark them up for a fair profit, and still offer them to you retail for less than you will find on the street.
See bus for sale prepurchase list when coach shopping then browse buses for sale
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