| Bus for Sale Guide - used buses for sale everywhere here's help choosing the right bus first | |||||||
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Trying to save a few bucks on the foundation is unwise. If you need to skimp do so on the cosmetics later. The church kids or tour group aren't going to care if they sit on vinyl or leather, but schedule a big event and have a breakdown due to faulty brakes, and they'll never forget it. Your spouse may not mind that the bed mattress you put in is lightweight foam, but if the bus won't start, you won't be using the bed at all. |
So, you have access to an auction list or an inventory of used buses, or an individual bus in mind. Ask for service records, original paperwork, and recent repair receipts. Everything in the paper trail will help you determine value and avoid potential problems. It will also reward you with some eye opening information.
Oh, you mean you didn't know an engine swap could cost $3,000? Surprised that a brake job with rotors and new lines was $1,400? Or that at tire mounted and balanced might cost $400? Receipts and paperwork are very valuable.
Carefully look through the paperwork and avoid the purchase of buses with no paper trail at all. Look for weird situations. Finding a receipt for an AC charge might be good, if its recent. Come across receipts for an AC charge done three times in the last year and you have a problem. Of the receipts don't have the bus VIN on them how do you know the receipts are for the bus your looking at.
Rule of thumb when buying a bus for one tenth the original price. BUDGET for parts an labor on ANY mechanical part for which you don't have a good history, receipt trail, or ability to inspect. In other words if you can't verify it's condition then don't buy the bus unless you can afford to replace it, part by part. That means: AC, brakes, hydraulic lines, engine compression, transmission condition, steering and front end parts, electrical system from the wiring harness to the gauges, alternator and fuse panels, tires, body, and glass, air compressor buildup and recovery times, and many other items your mechanic can advise you about. This is especially true when buying for a committee or group where you have to answer to large numbers of people long term for the purchase such as when buying a church bus.
It is possible to buy a used school bus for $5,000 that originally sold for over $70,000 or a nearly indestructible stainless steel passenger coach for 10% of the original price. With such a great bargain to begin with, you really shouldn't purchase anything but the best foundation you can afford. You may later choose to spend $10,000 to $30,000 or hundreds of hours of your time on converting or customizing the bus or establishing yourself as a dependable tour operator. Do you really want to build on a shell that has a bad frame? Do you really want to invest so much in a bus that has a bad engine or transmission that you must fight with?
Rust - When buying a used bus remember - rust cannot be stopped. Rust does not rest. Rust MUST be taken seriously no matter how cheap your bus candidate is. If you think you can sheet metal and bondo your way to a permanent fix, think again. If the rust is just a little, it'll grow quickly by the time you're done investing a lot of your time and money. A little rust on the body surface may be acceptable for the price. Do not, however, accept structural rust, heavily flaking frames, rusting-out fenders or hood hinge mounts. Anything that would be a major problem when (not if) it gets twice as bad as it is now, will make you very sorry.
Service Records - If it's been in fleet use, it has one. If you're buying from a middle man and he can't produce it, you may have problems, possibly serious ones. If not, he'd be proudly displaying the records. Check how long since the engine rebuild - they last about 75 -125,000 miles, depending on whether they are driven stop and go in the mountains or over long stretches of flat highway.
Leaks - Look for ANY signs of leaks, particularly from Automatic Transmissions. Some Allison transmissions used in buses have weak front seals and leak when the transmission gets really hot. Don't buy a bus with a leaky transmission. A replacement Allison can cost $5,000 parts and labor. Leaking brake components or hydraulic systems can be expensive to repair also.
Transmissions - try for an automatic
unless you have a real preference. Older standard shifts are MUCH harder to sell
because many older coaches are purchased as conversion candidates. Retirees mostly
buy motor home conversions and they don't like to shift. Allison makes the best
transmission systems.
Engines - get the biggest engine you can
afford, especially if you are adding conversion weight to the vehicle. There is
NO substitute for size (raw cubic inches) I don't care what the ads say. My car
has a 440 in it why would you buy a 65 passenger bus with a 318? Explore the links
on the left for more comprehensive bus for
sale help.
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